Inside Pamplona

Jeff and his Spanish brother
in old Pamplona

There's no better way to see a city than in the company of a local.  Hence our perfect day in Pamplona, spent with Jeff's childhood friend, his wife, their children, and his parents - three generations of Pamplon-ites, so warm and welcoming that I forgot at times they were speaking in Spanish (which, I should point out, I do not understand).

I'm not sure, outside the San Fermin festival (aka, the running of the bulls), that there's that much to "see" in Pamplona - Bilbao and San Sebastian are much more interesting places to spend time as a tourist.  But after walking us around the old town, our friend/inside guide shared with us three favorite spots that are worthy of note:

1. Along the ramparts: On the edge of old town (where the bulls start their infamous run), a quiet park runs along the old city walls, with a view down the hill and out over the rolling countryside.  It's quieter there, with leafy trees and people out strolling with their dogs.  At the far corner, there's a medieval inn, owned by the city but rented to the proprietors of a bar.  This was our friend's well-chosen pick for the most atmospheric place in Pamplona to have a patio drink on a summer afternoon. 

2. Europa: But when it comes to serious food, our friend's favorite restaurant in Pamplona is Europa, a Michelin-starred restaurant with a female chef.  Mixed into the menu are classic Basque dishes - like my (still bloody) grilled pigeon, and our starters of white asparagus and heirloom tomatos with Spanish olive oil, sea salt, sweet vinegar, and a light dab of fresh mayonnaise.  My favorite, though, was the simple-sounding but exquisite paper-thin slices of char-grilled red pepper, dressed with olive oil and topped with even thinner slices of flash-fried jamon.  Oh, and the amuse bouche - a phyllo-wrapped bite of morcillo (earthy blood sausage) paired with a shot glass of cool vichyssoise spiked with a tiny crunch of bacon (and maybe some sherry vinegar?). I didn't eat again for twelve hours.

Cafe Iruna

3. Cafe Iruna: Reputedly a favorite of Hemingway's (whose statue stands in the shadow of the city's famous bull ring, just down the street), this classic cafe fronts the city's main square and has an elegant old-school feel - all dark shiny wood and mirrors.  It may be that this place primarily exists to cater to tourists, but it would still be the perfect place for a post-lunch coffee (if we had not already oversated ourselves).  

Thanks to our friend, we also got to visit the eating club directly above the cafe, where the equally high-ceilinged front room, full of sagging old furniture and gaming tables, opens up onto the square through a long row of French windows and corresponding balconies.  

The eating club above Cafe Iruna

Although I am a great fan of Hemingway (albeit more For Whom the Bell Tolls than The Sun Also Rises), I'm not really all that into the unnecessary killing of living things for entertainment value.  Perhaps, then, it was better I got a taste of Pamplona's old town before the annual San Fermin festival (currently underway) - the town was quiet, perhaps, but also pleasantly civilized, enjoying its good life before the hordes descend.