Tuesday, May 14, 2013

#1 Very Best Day Trip

Mt. Hood from the air: a "real" mountain.
When we have out-of-town guests, our #1 very top pick for a day trip from Portland is not wine country, but the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood. Natural beauty, sunnier weather, a plethora of outdoor activities, a "real" mountain – all an easy drive from Portland. It's a winner every time.

So hard do we push the Gorge/Hood loop, we compiled detailed instructions on the route for our wedding guests last year. The guests' consensus: two satisfied thumbs up. For posterity, then, the Maggie & Jeff Guide for the Best Day Trip Ever from PDX:

Part I: The Historic Highway and Vista House
Drive east on I-84 out of Portland for about 30 minutes until you reach Troutdale. Take the main Troutdale exit (Exit 17) and follow the signs for the historic highway: go straight through the first light and turn right at the second light past a big shopping center. After you clear the shopping area, take a left at the light and head down Troutdale’s main street. You are heading the right direction if you go under the arch that says “Troutdale” and past a bunch of new Old West-looking storefronts.

The highway first takes you across the Sandy River and then starts to climb up through fields. When it crests, you will get your first view of the Gorge. Shortly afterwards, the road passes around the Vista House. Get out here for some key photo ops.

Vista House (on the right): Gateway to the Gorge.
The highway – and the Vista House – were built during the Depression by the WPA. Before I-84 raced along the bottom of the Gorge, the old highway wound its way precariously along (and through) the cliffs. Only this stretch, from Troutdale to Multnomah Falls, is still open to car traffic.

Vista House itself is a charming little rest area situated at the mouth of the Gorge. It is aptly named: the start of the Gorge unfurls to the east in lush folds of cliffs and river. Once you have pictures of the vista, if you'd also like pictures of the vista that includes the Vista House, backtrack slightly up the highway to the prior lookout.

Part II: Waterfalls and Hiking
After the Vista House, you will pass a series of waterfalls: Latourell Falls, Sheperd's Dell, Bridal Veil Falls, Wahkeena Falls, and the biggie, Multnomah Falls, one of the tallest waterfalls in the western hemisphere (and a key Oregon photo op).

Multnomah Falls
For those so inclined, hiking trails around here are ample. A classic choice is to hike to the top of Multnomah Falls – it's only a mile, but it's straight up. (No, really, we mean it: it's straight up.) At the very least, walk to the bridge that crosses at the base of the Falls to get up close and personal.

Part III: Salmon and Dams
From Multnomah Falls, follow the signs to get back onto I-84 East. You will soon pass through Cascade Locks, a small town along the Columbia River that is home to Bonneville Dam.

Bonneville is the first dam on the Columbia River (heading upriver from the Pacific), and it is a big one. This dam changed the region’s economy with its supply of cheap electricity, but the dams along the Columbia are also linked to the near extinction of major salmon runs.

Bonneville operates tours, and the visitors' center and fish ladders are open to the public (the spring salmon runs get going in April, but the big runs are in September). This is a good stop for those with kids or those curious about engineering marvels. If you'd prefer a serious hike amidst the Gorge's natural beauty, the Eagle Creek Trail starts close to here. Built in the early 1900s, the trail passes several major waterfalls and includes cliff-hugging paths and chasm-spanning footbridges. Afterwards, continue heading east on I-84.

Part IV: Hood River
Hood River is a sweet town perched on the edge of the Columbia about where the Gorge changes from lush to arid. It is also the windsurfing capital of, like, the world.

If you got an early start, this is the perfect place to break for lunch. Full Sail Brewery dominates the downtown and has a restaurant (tours are also possible). Alternatively, the Double Mountain Brewery is tiny and popular with the local: its beer is hoppy and its pizza is New Haven-style (I recommend the Jersey pie).

After lunch, hunt down the little shack that sells ice cream shakes using fresh local berries. Yum.  (I always just stumble upon this place - it's like it has a magnetic draw.) Take your berry shake down to the waterfront park to watch the windsurfers, kite surfers, and others with apparent death wishes battle the mighty Columbia.

Hood River is also a major fruit producing region: pear, apple and cherry orchards line the country roads around here. The town has put together a 35-mile Fruit Loop that takes you past many of these farms (some of which welcome visitors), as well as fruit stands selling local produce.

From here, make a game-time decision. If it’s late afternoon and you’re getting tired, you can get back to Portland in a bit over an hour if you drive straight back west on I-84. If you still have a few hours left in you, you should loop over Mt. Hood instead.

Part V: To the Mountain
From Hood River, head out of town on SR35 (you will likely stumble upon it – Hood River is pretty small). The road takes you through more scenic farmland before entering the evergreen forests at the base of the mountain. From there the road starts to climb. Stay on SR 35 until it T's into Hwy. 26, which you want to take west towards Portland.

Mirror Lake: Another classic photo op.
While you're on the mountain, take time to stop at the overlooks and consider pausing for some short hikes (just be careful pulling over, as these roads are curvy and people drive fast). I’ve heard that the Tamanawas Falls Trail (East Fork Trail 650) is a pretty, two-mile hike past more waterfalls.

For an easy, family friendly hike, check out Mirror Lake: it’s right on the road to Portland, the trail is fairly short and well-maintained, and from the lake you get one of the iconic views (read: another photo op) of the top of Mt. Hood.

The elusive trillium
Also look out for trilliums: these rare flowers, if plucked, will not bloom again for seven years. I’ve been fascinated by these since childhood, but Jeff doesn’t get what all the fuss is about.

Part VI: Timberline Lodge
While you’re on Mt. Hood, look out for the signs for the road leading to Timberline Lodge. Also built by the WPA during the Great Depression, Timberline Lodge is a beloved local landmark full of handmade furniture and functional art. Head upstairs to the great room to rest by the central fire place, or consider having a snack or a drink at the mezzanine bar (their dining room is reportedly quite good, too). At the very least, Timberline is worth a quick detour to (a) get you closer to the “real” part of the mountain, (b) provide a bathroom break from all this driving and hiking, and (c) allow you to say you visited the hotel from the Shining.

Above the timber line.
Part VIII: Edgefield
As you drive Hwy. 26 back towards Portland, you will pass through a different section of Troutdale. Consider cutting back to I-84 from here for the rest of the return drive (taking Hwy. 26 back into town is a slow and arduous process through very unscenic urban sprawl).

If you are ravenously hungry, you might want to stop at Edgefield, an outpost of the local McMenamin’s brewpub chain. (From Hwy. 26, take a right on 242nd and follow it almost to the freeway, then take a right on NE Halsey.)  Edgefield was the county poorhouse back in the day, a farm with institutional brick buildings that have now been turned into restaurants, a hotel and a concert venue. While the quality of McMenamin’s food has declined in recent years, it’s still a good place to get a burger and a beer to enjoy in their patio garden among wildflowers and shade trees.

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